Windy and loopy is my middle name…was that really a waterfall?…and, do you think you could move like that in a grass skirt and coconut bra?
After the first proper sleep in what feels like a very long time, we are up early and on the road. Today we are on route to the famous road to Hana – a Maui highlight. On the way we stop again in Paia and pick up breakfast, Kona coffee and a picnic lunch at Anthony’s Coffee Company. We arrive at the perfect time – while we’re waiting for our take-away, the line of locals picking up morning coffee mixed with other Hana bound tourists extends out the door. A few miles into our drive, MG pulls over to take the top off our jeep and we watch locals surfing from the side of the road. They maneuver through the waves with ease and a certain grace - making surfing look both effortless and remarkable.
Surfers outside of Paia
The Hana Highway is east of Paia. It begins as a normal country highway and quickly turns into a windy road, taking travelers on a journey to exotic valleys, curving costal cliffs and everything in between. With the Lonely Planet in my lap (MG already highlighting the best stopping spots) navigate, calling out mile markers and the distance to our next lookout or upcoming attraction. From being surrounded by brilliant painted eucalyptus trees to impressive views of the coast the drive lives up to its reputation. Coming from Europe, MG is quite comfortable (expertly) navigating the windy and loopy road, slowing as we approach the more than 50 single lane bridges on the highway. At home, these curves would leave me feeling as though I just got off a rollercoaster, but riding high in the jeep with the fresh air in my face, I am unaffected – enjoying being a passenger. We both agree, however, that the promise of abundant waterfalls has been overstated. Perhaps is the time of year or lack of recent rainfall, but the small falls we pass can’t compete with Niagara Falls or any of the amazing waterfalls we passed while driving into Nepal from the Tibet border. We take our lunch break at Pailoa Beach – Maui’s best black sand beach. It’s a popular spot and other drivers come and go as we sit on a bench watching the waves break against the black sand (Pailoa translates into “always splashing”).
Lunch break at Pailoa - a black sand beach
After lunch, it is a short hike in the black rocks past the beach to an amazing ocean view. We continue our drive, stopping at lookout points and beaches along the way. We arrive in Hana, a tiny town with a population of less than 2,000 people) in the early afternoon. While we were sufficiently warned to fill our gas tank before starting the drive…we didn’t…and are forced to fill up at a significant premium in Hana (but it is still cheaper than Switzerland J).
We opt to drive the 10 miles past Hana to Ohe’o Gulch – which brings us back to into Haleakala National Park. We paid the three day park entrance fee a day earlier when we went to watch the sunrise. As we enter a second time, the park ranger thanks us for paying using the honour system the previous day. We decide not to go swimming, but we walk through the cools pools – each on connected to the next by a small waterfall. The cascading pools are surprisingly busy. By the time we leave, the overflow parking lot – almost empty on our arrival – is now packed. Having completed our day’s journey, we turn around and start our travels back – taking the same scenic drive out of the park, through Hana and back to the beginning of the Hana highway - there is no shortcut or alternative route. Backtracking our original path takes less time, but MG must still navigate the windy road and contend with the “less experienced” drivers on the road. It is now shortly after three and we need the full two hours to pass back through Paia and further west to Lahaina.
Performance at the Old Lahaina Luau
We have pre-booked a Luau dinner at the Old Lahaina Luau and arrive just on schedule at 17:15. Slightly underdressed, MG puts shorts on over his swim trunks and I change into a sundress in the bathroom. We leave our day clothes and towels in the Jeep and hope they are still there when we return (note – everything in the car was exactly where we left it, but perhaps I should have taken a circle check…see Day 4). Recommended both by our guide book and also by a colleague as a first rate, authentic Luau experience, we booked weeks in advance and still had limited selection. The staff were welcoming, the food was decent and the drinks were fun. We were greeted with a Lei and Mai Tai and shown to our table. The show and hula dancers are mesmerizing, as we watch from our table (we opted for traditional seating - cross-legged on cushions and dining from a low table). We have a fun time, seated with another Swiss couple taking a vacation from travelling, a honeymooning couple, and a mother daughter from South America. The show wraps up shortly after 21:00 and we make our way back to the Four Seasons, sleepy from a long day of travelling (props to MG for doing all the driving, while I got to enjoy the ride).